Of late I have been mostly been finishing off a big edit, but have been out and about doing a few jobs. Last week I had an absolute gem, photographing a whisky tasting event in Tokyo University agriculture department for Nick Coldicott’s most informative drinks column in the Japan Times. I’m Scottish, I love whisky, for these kind of jobs I clear my schedule and would sell my soul if need be.
The day was organized by the Scotch Single Malt Whisky Society and featured Suntory’s chief blender giving a talk on casking….to cut a long story short I took photos of everything that was going on and then helped myself to some whiskies which the organizer, David Croll was kind enough to offer up to Nick and I as the society members were doing their own thing. Many a fine whisky there was too, I was very grateful for everyone’s generosity on the day. I got to learn a bit more about whisky and got to sample some excellent limited edition Scotch malt whisky society whiskies. An excellent day all round.
When I was living in Scotland, I barely drank whisky, when I did it was usually a dare. For me it just tasted nasty, I couldn’t understand why people drank it. I thought it was a drink for old men and alcoholics. How wrong I was. In fairness, I think the whiskies I drank for a dare when I was young were quite cheap blends, the worst of the worst, more akin to diesel than the fine tipple whisky is. Then, when I moved to Japan and went home to visit Scotland every few years I started to explore a bit more of my own country and visited a few distilleries, such as the Talisker distillery on the Isle of Skye and the Dalwhinnie distillery in the Central Highlands. There I learned about the whole process of making whisky, from the selection of grains through to the importance of the shape of the still and the unique source of water used for each whisky which gives a unique taste to each malt. All single malts taste different, some vastly so and there is a wide variety of tastes that come through each “dram.” The whole art of whisky tasting has taken off a lot in the last 10 years or so and whisky has went from being the “old mans drink” to being a sophisticated drink appreciated all over the world.
So much goes into each bottle of whisky. Barley is carefully selected from all over Scotland, then the grains are dried, sometimes with the aid of peat fires, then they are malted and brewed into spirits. Each distillery has a unique shaped still which is believed to add a flavour specific to each whisky. The raw spirits are mixed with a local water source and this is perhaps the ingredient of most vital importance, if the water source dries up, the whisky will stop being made as the flavour would change too much. It’s as simple as that. After the spirit is made, it is aged in casks, often American bourbon casks or even sherry casks which impart their own taste on the liquid within whilst taking the rough edge off the spirit. Most whiskies are left in their cask for a minimum 8 years, during which time the spirit in the cask gradually evaporates and flavours are slowly extracted from the cask and the atmosphere surrounding the distillery, whether it be sea breezes or the heavy smells of clover fields and pine forests. Some whiskies are stored for up to 50 years or more, by the time they are bottled there isn’t much liquid left in each cask, hence you pay a lot more for the older whiskies, they have become a lot smoother over time and have absorbed a gob smacking amount of flavours.
When you start to appreciate whiskies and taste a lot of them, it’s fun seeing what flavours you can smell and taste. When smelling each glass of whisky (as with wine), it helps to open your mouth to help the air flow in through the nose and out the mouth to reveal more flavours. People often pick up hints of vanilla, orange peel or pine to name a few. The colours of each whisky differ a lot, some are very light like a flavoured vodka, others are dark and caramely (is that a word?). When tasting, you get initial tastes and after tastes that can differ wildly, sometimes smooth and subtle, sometimes the slaps you round the face and rattle your senses. Basic flavours range from fresh and fruity to spicy or smokey. In some you taste hints of honey, in some salty sea air. Experts get very floral in their descriptions, conjuring up wild and often humourous images. From the event the other day, there were flavours described as “I wish it could be Christmas every day” and my personal favourite “Tibetan joss sticks and Polynesian pork.” Personally, I find the smell of Laphroaig to remind me Dettol and hospital floors.
Like many fine things in life, whisky is something I have come to appreciate as I have got a bit older. I’m always keen to find new whiskies and try them out. I enjoy a whisky or two at the end of an evening, sometimes after a couple of glasses or wine or after a couple of nice beers. It’s not a cheap drink, it’s one to be savoured and having too much at one time is a bit of a waste because after a few you numb your palate somewhat. It’s a drink for all year round, but I especially enjoy it in the winter when it’s cold outside. Some of my favourites include Macallan, Laphroaig, Lagavullin, Strathisla, Bowmore, Bruichladdich and of late, Caol Isla has been standing out for me. At the higher end of the market with the old whiksies, of late I had a very nice Longmorn 40 year old which was exquisite.
Anyway, I think I’ll wind down for the evening with a little Caol Isla now. Any other recommendations from anyone and I would love to hear about them.








7 Comments
Nice post mate. For me too Whisky seemed to mean a bottle of Bells at christmas time that no-one ever drank, but then as an Englishman what do i know? I used to hate red wine also but a French girlfriend saw to that and now i barely touch the white as it is usually just too Domestosy (Now that isn`t a word but should be!) for me. Have yet to take my more educated palate to whisky as, like good wine, you want to know what your buying and not look like a tourist. Wine is easy, the further you can get your thumb into the dimple at the bottom of the bottle seems to be a rule of thumb (if you`ll excuse the pun) for implied quality. With whisky i wouldn`t even know where to start. But you have given me some ideas, looks like I`ll be heading for the Hazelburn in Shinjuku one day soon to give a Caol Isla a try if they have it.
Talk soon
Damon
Will,
Would have loved to attend that tasting event. I keep meaning to each year, and never get round.
I have to say, The Balvenie Double Wood 12 year is consistently good and when I’m stumped for what to spend ¥4000 on at the bottle shop, that’s what I always go for. And sometimes my local has incredible deals on the Lagavulin 16 (around ¥5000, not sure why) but when I see it I grab it.
Jeff
Thanks for the comments guys,
Damon, I remember the Bells too. It was nasty, even for a Scotsman like me. I’ve not been to the Hazelburn in Shinjuku yet, but I have heard they have a good selection. In Tokyo University they have actually just made a bar for the Scotch malt Whisky society members with an excellent selection, non-members can go also. I went again last weekend for another shoot and enjoyed a few beautiful malts. It’s not cheap but you get to try whiskies that you can’t get other places.
Jeff, where is your local? Lagavulin 16 for 5000 yen would be worth traveling for. Up in Saitama where I live, there is a really good store near my house with an excellent selection o whiskies, often cheap prices as well (recently got a Dalwhinnie 15 for 3900 yen everywhere else it’s 5000 odd yen). Also, in Kabukicho there is a place called “World wine and food” (I think, could be wrong, but head down from Shinjuku station towards the cinema area, but rather than turning left to the cinemas, turn right and you will see it before the gorilla…odd directions even by my standards). There is a great selection of whiskies there, also they sometimes have some great British ales.
Having a Bowmore 12 now, nice and smokey.
Was in kabukicho tonight, the shop is actually called Shinanoya and you have to walk through the area with the cinemas, turn right and go straight past a few bars and hostess clubs and you will see it tucked away. Brilliant selection of whiskies, got myself some proper whisky drinking glasses….
Cool depictions bursting with flair and personality:) – A perfect pitch (work and a few good drinks)!
This was a sweet gig to get, Will. Am green with envy! Also, I’m a Macallan/Glenmorangie man myself. Not so keen on the peaty dark whiskys. I love how reasonably priced good malts are out here – cheaper than home I reckon, ironically enough.
Stu
Stu,
Was indeed a sweet gig. I think next time I will try (and probably fail) to not indulge in so much whisky whilst technially working. Once I have the shots though….
I do like a Macallan as well, reguarly buy one, only been the last couple of years I have got into the big peaty tastes from the west coast and Islay.
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